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Archaeological Museum in Chania

We were assured that tickets to the museum could be easily purchased on site, so we set off leisurely from Thimari Gardens on a beautiful October day around 11 a.m. Leisurely and on foot. Google suggested that the walk would take 25 minutes and would run picturesquely along the coast, from Splantzia in the old town of Chania, eastwards towards the Halepa district, where the modern and eco-friendly new building of the Archaeological Museum is located.

We were not disappointed. The coastal road winds along the high rocky shore and allows you to either see the magnificent Venetian gate of Chania (Sabbionara) from a new perspective or enjoy tropical views. The last 300 metres lead into the city, but there is still plenty to admire here, because Halepa gained its fame in the 19th century as a centre of politics and business for the greats of this world, which resulted in the creation of many beautiful and unusual villas and estates, which, either carefully renovated or still waiting for an investor with a bag of money, can be seen on the way to the museum.

But there is also the museum building. Low, blending into the hill, quite discreet from the outside, bright, uncluttered and open inside.

Standard tickets cost €6, but all EU residents under the age of 25 enter for free. Audio guides are also free of charge.

The permanent exhibition, covering the period from the Palaeolithic to Roman times, is housed in three large rooms. Most of the 4,100 exhibits come from the Chania area and the island of Gavdos, which is famous for its remains indicating that it was inhabited as early as 700,000 BC.

The first room presents the prehistory of this part of the world from the Palaeolithic period to the heyday of Minoan culture, with its palatial period, the remains of which are now mostly hidden in the Kastelli district of Chania, then known as Kydonia.

In the second room, we see a collection covering the Iron Age, the time of city-states, led by Kydonia and Aptera.

The third room is a narrative built around the destruction wrought by the terrible earthquake of 365 AD, and in particular the story of the destruction of a house called Filargyros, whose buried remains have become an excellent source of knowledge about that era.

There is another room on the first floor, which houses Mitsotakis’ private collection donated to the museum. It contains an absolute rarity – a stone seal engraved with the Minotaur, dated 1350 BC.

The exhibits are logically arranged, the most interesting ones are displayed and illuminated in an interesting way (I was delighted by the Minoan seal, jewellery, warriors’ graves and Roman mosaics), and clearly described. A leisurely stroll through all the rooms takes about 1.5 hours, and for those who are tired, there is a pleasant café with a terrace on the upper floor, offering an unobstructed, wonderful view of Chania and the Cretan Sea.

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The olive tree, its fruit, oil and wood

The olive tree, which we know and see today in many Mediterranean countries, has an extremely long history, growing alongside us and satisfying our needs with its wood, fruit and oil. For example, we know that as early as 100,000 years ago in Africa, its wood was certainly used as fuel, and people at that time may also have consumed olives. We also have evidence that it was cultivated in the Mediterranean basin as early as 7,000 years ago. In Crete, its importance as one of the basic crops (along with cereals and vines) reached a very high level in 3000 BC, and many scientists believe that its commercial cultivation and trade were the source of the wealth of the Minoan civilisation. At that time, however, olive oil was mainly used for lamps (including sacred ones), for skin and hair care, and for anointing. Since then, the olive tree and its fruit have held an unshakeable position as the main crop in the Mediterranean region, whether in Spain, Italy or Greece.

The name of the olive tree (Latin: Olea Europea) most likely derives from the Proto-Greek language, and its first written form appeared in the Mycenaean syllabic script Linear B (2200-1900 BC).

The olive tree has always been a symbol of wisdom, peace, strength, fertility and purity. This is not surprising, as the tree itself is quite remarkable. To thrive, it simply needs sunshine, a little water and well-drained soil. This is enough to keep it alive for hundreds, sometimes thousands, of years. In Crete, in the village of Vouves, 30 kilometres from Chania, you can see the famous olive tree, estimated to be between 2,000 and 4,000 years old. If you decide to visit this national monument, don’t miss the interesting Olive Tree Museum nearby.

Today, Greece remains one of the leading producers of olive oil. Crete alone has about 30 million trees, and annual olive oil production reaches 120,000 metric tonnes, 80% of which is extra virgin olive oil. Although Greece ranks third as a European olive oil producer (after Spain and Italy), it proudly leads the world in olive oil consumption, with 24 litres per capita per year! This is not surprising, as its quality is the highest. The fresher the olive oil, the better. In Crete, olive oil production takes place immediately after the autumn harvest (October-November), the olives are crushed whole, and the greenish, intensely fragrant liquid fills bottles and cans. It is available for sale from December.

Cretan olive oil is mainly obtained from two varieties: Koronaiki and Tsounadi. The quality of the oil is excellent (as I mentioned earlier, 80% is Extra Virgin, which translates into low acidity – below 0.8% free acidity and a fruity flavour), but the oils naturally differ in taste depending on the region they come from. The Chania region is famous for the producers Chania Kritis and Kolymvari Chanion Kritis, whose oils are known for their slightly peppery taste. Those who prefer milder, less ‘demanding’ types can try olive oil from Kritsa or Sitia. For the more adventurous, many producers offer oils with added herbs (e.g. rosemary), lemon or orange peel.

In addition to buying olive oil, tourists are keen to choose from dozens of types of marinated olives, and often buy kitchen utensils or bowls made of hard, durable but very decorative olive wood.

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What (wild) creatures live and roam the wilderness of Crete?

Being an animal lover and a fan of Crete, I thought I had the perfect topic for a blog post.

However, exploring the topic turned out to be not entirely satisfactory, and the material I gathered was rather sparse. Well, Crete, being an island, is by definition practically devoid of predators, boasts a small number of mammals, and, in addition, human activity has decimated and limited the local fauna. Unfortunately, though once upon a time even small elephants lived there, now if someone spots a WILD animal in the wilderness or in a ravine, it immediately becomes an event, as if it were a great animal migration in Tanzania.

photo credit villaterracreta.com

But to the point, what can lucky and observant travellers hope to see? The most talked about animal is the wild and shy Cretan kri-kri goat (also known as agrimi), of which there are about 2,500 left. These goats are famous for their acrobatic agility, which allows them to stay on almost vertical rocky cliffs or outcrops. The males with long, twisted horns look particularly impressive. Currently, these animals can be found in the gorges of Samaria, Agia Irini or Tripiti and their wild surroundings. In an attempt to prevent the kri-kri from interbreeding with domestic goats (which were very eager to diversify their genetic makeup), many of them were transported to two uninhabited islands near Crete, Dia and Theodorou, but apparently they did not like the conditions there.

My dream would be to encounter the elusive and extremely rare Cretan wildcat (fourogatos). In all likelihood, there are only a few left on the island; in 2016, one individual was seen on the Lasithi plateau. These cats are larger than domestic cats and have thick fur covered with a distinctive pattern.

In addition to the animals mentioned above, there are many smaller mammals living on the island. We may encounter hedgehogs, rabbits, badgers, weasels, shrews, rats and bats. Interestingly, there are no foxes in Crete and therefore no problem with rabies.

Birds are also moderately represented, despite the fact that Crete lies on the migration route to Africa for many species, providing them with a convenient stopover on their long journey. In the mountains, look out for the impressive griffon vultures circling in search of food. The island is also home to golden eagles, bearded vultures, falcons and owls. Smaller but particularly beautifully coloured birds are represented by bee-eaters.

Among the reptiles, the magnificent Caretta turtles, which can measure 120-130 cm and weigh up to 160 kg, are sure to attract attention! These are sea turtles that come out of the sea 2-3 times a year to lay their eggs on the beach. They prepare a nesting site for about 100 eggs, each the size of a tennis ball, by digging a hole 50-100 cm deep. After laying their eggs, they carefully bury the hole and return to the sea.

Apart from turtles, Crete is home to several species of small geckos and lizards (only the Podarcis cretensis, or Cretan wall lizard, is endemic) and four species of completely harmless snakes, of which the leopard snake is particularly striking in appearance.

Photos from: discoveronfoot.com, cretanvioma.gr

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The Queen is one!

Khoriatki salata (Χωριάτικη σαλάτα) is one of the most classic Greek dishes. The ingredients of this salad, brilliant in its simplicity (rural in its name), are always the same in Greece, small variations are allowed. But really small ones, and I will defend this conviction like King Leonidas – Thermopylae.

Well, the bowl should contain ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, which are juicy and sweet in the south, peppers (but green, green!), all chopped thickly and drizzled generously with the best quality olive oil. A thick slice of feta cheese is placed on top and sprinkled with Greek oregano. Often you’ll also find black olives, white wine vinegar for a little acidity, and a little salt, although in my opinion good feta is salty enough. It is standard to serve bread with choriatiki, usually unsophisticated but good enough to soak up the remaining juice at the bottom of the bowl.

There is nothing better in hot weather, when the crisp and cool vegetables release their juices and flavours with every bite, the friendly human bustle echoes in the background and the air smells of sun, herbs, sea and freedom.

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Contact

Our property – Thimari Gardens – is located in the old town of Chania, Crete, Greece. The exact address of our home is :

11, Vourdoumpa, 731 32 Chania

If you are interested in renting the property, either short or long-term, send a request email on aniolmagritta@gmail.com.

Our property is also rented via Booking.com and Airbnb and its official registration number is 00002853123.

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To Stachi slow food

If you are a vegetarian (or not!), you must go there. A wide selection of vegan and vegetarian dishes that will satisfy all palates. Non-alcoholic beers and wines, natural wines – you are sure to find something to accompany your meal. On top of that the intergenerational family that runs the restaurant are the lovliest people in town!

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Maridaki – seafood restaurant

It is a place of reference in Chania when it comes to fresh fish and seafood. The restaurant is located very near Splantzia square, offers outside and inside tables spread on two floors. It is always bustling with the sounds of conversation, laughter, the clatter of cutlery and plates, and waiters rushing about.

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Open air street market

On Saturdays, don’t miss the market with fresh fruit and vegetables. You will find it on Minoos Street in Chania, a 5-minute walk from the apartment.

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Rooms and spaces

Our apartment, which is spacious and airy (ca.100 m2) can accommodate up to 6 guests. It has one private bedroom that sleeps two, a living room that sleeps two more and a mezzanine just above the living room for two more guests.

The private bedroom (after you enter and to the right) comes with a double bed (153 x 200 cm), a wardrobe, two bedside tables, and a chest of drawers. The window overlooks the front porch and the garden. There is an air conditioner and a ceiling fan, if you get hot in the summer, and a heater +air conditioner if you get cold.

The living room area features a cosy sofa bed (90 x 200 cm) with a pullout bed (87 x 190 cm) tucked away underneath, a couch, armchairs, an old chest, an antique revolving bookcase, and a TV. The living room windows overlook a series of backyards with lush greenery, beyond which you can see the sea. The living room is equipped with two air conditioners that also function as heaters, plus a ceiling fan.

The kitchen is in the same space. It features a dining table with chairs that you can also use as a workspace, a glass cabinet with everything you may need (plates, cups etc), a big fridge, coffee maker, kettle, two hotplates, and a microwave.

The bathroom, right next to the kitchen, features a toilet, a sink and a shower with a glass ceiling, which allows the bathroom to be lit naturally during the day by a skylight on the roof. We hope that you will enjoy natural cosmetics of ABEA – the oldest olive oil company established in Chania. There is also a washing machine, which you are welcome to use. A clothes hanger rests next to the washing machine. Iron board and electric iron are also available.

On the mezzanine, accessible via a staircase, there are two more single beds with bedside tables, a wardrobe, a chest of drawers, an extra table with a chair that you can use as a workspace, a chest, and an antique folding screen, which hides the bathroom’s glass ceiling.

The apartments also have a charming balcony with a table and two chairs. From this balcony, you can admire a bitter orange tree and the stylish, flower-filled inner courtyard.In the courtyard, near the entrance gate, there is a table with chairs for four people. Above it, a magnificent araucaria tree spreads its crown.

The apartment is self-catering. Towels, sheets, pillows, blankets, and duvets will be at your disposal and if you are staying for more than five days you will be provided with an extra pair of towels and sheets. The water heater is solar-powered, but if you run out of hot water you can always power the heater electrically.