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Knossos – the treasure of Minoan culture

Let me start from the end. Summer is not the best time to visit this place. It is hot, really hot, and you are exposed to the scorching sun, because most of what you want to see is located in open courtyards or terraces.

But if you have no choice because you are on holiday in Crete in August and consider the Palace of Knossos a must-see (after all, it ranks second among the most visited archaeological sites in Greece, after the Acropolis), do it in the morning, right after opening, or an hour or an hour and a half before closing.

You may also be discouraged from visiting Knossos (5 km south of Heraklion and 140 km from Chania) by the opinion that British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans, who between 1900 and 1905 after buying the entire hill with the palace and excavating most of what can be seen today, undertook a controversial and, as we now know, in several respects misguided reconstruction of the buildings and rooms.There is no denying that this was the case. The biggest mistakes concern the use of excessive amounts of concrete to reinforce the remaining ruins and arbitrary decisions regarding the appearance and content of the restored frescoes. Sir Evans commissioned a Swiss artist to paint the latter in the throne room without having any archaeological basis for their appearance.

But don’t let that discourage you. It’s a minor detail when you consider that it was thanks to this passionate archaeologist that the palace complex was excavated (not discovered, as the credit for that goes to the Greek Minos Kolokairinos, who was already aware of the existence of the then underground complex in 1878) and protected from looting. The palace buildings owe their stability to the infamous concrete, and some of the original frescoes have been preserved and can be admired in the Archaeological Museum in Heraklion.

It is difficult not to be impressed by the grandeur of 4,000 years ago. The Minoan culture, which was present in Crete between 2000 and 1400 BC, allowed for the creation of a complex of buildings covering an area of 22 hectares, which was inhabited by 80,000 people at the peak of its development. The palace complex boasted 1,500 rooms, and some buildings were five storeys high.

Walking around the excavations, we can see magnificent staircases, porticoes, a columned hall, pottery and stonemason workshops, courtyards, a theatre and a sanctuary. Of course, there are also royal halls, called megarons. The queen’s hall is decorated with replicas of famous frescoes with dolphins. It is also interesting to see traces of the ordinary, everyday life of the Minoans. In the warehouses, or rather pantries, there are huge clay containers, called pithos, which were used to store grain, wine and oil. We know that the buildings were equipped with toilets and that water and sewage systems distributed through clay pipes were used. The buildings provided coolness in summer, and light entered through skylights.

Many figurines and tablets with Linear A and B writing were also found at the excavation site. However, these treasures, along with pottery and jewellery, can be admired in the aforementioned museum in Heraklion.

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Archaeological Museum in Chania

We were assured that tickets to the museum could be easily purchased on site, so we set off leisurely from Thimari Gardens on a beautiful October day around 11 a.m. Leisurely and on foot. Google suggested that the walk would take 25 minutes and would run picturesquely along the coast, from Splantzia in the old town of Chania, eastwards towards the Halepa district, where the modern and eco-friendly new building of the Archaeological Museum is located.

We were not disappointed. The coastal road winds along the high rocky shore and allows you to either see the magnificent Venetian gate of Chania (Sabbionara) from a new perspective or enjoy tropical views. The last 300 metres lead into the city, but there is still plenty to admire here, because Halepa gained its fame in the 19th century as a centre of politics and business for the greats of this world, which resulted in the creation of many beautiful and unusual villas and estates, which, either carefully renovated or still waiting for an investor with a bag of money, can be seen on the way to the museum.

But there is also the museum building. Low, blending into the hill, quite discreet from the outside, bright, uncluttered and open inside.

Standard tickets cost €6, but all EU residents under the age of 25 enter for free. Audio guides are also free of charge.

The permanent exhibition, covering the period from the Palaeolithic to Roman times, is housed in three large rooms. Most of the 4,100 exhibits come from the Chania area and the island of Gavdos, which is famous for its remains indicating that it was inhabited as early as 700,000 BC.

The first room presents the prehistory of this part of the world from the Palaeolithic period to the heyday of Minoan culture, with its palatial period, the remains of which are now mostly hidden in the Kastelli district of Chania, then known as Kydonia.

In the second room, we see a collection covering the Iron Age, the time of city-states, led by Kydonia and Aptera.

The third room is a narrative built around the destruction wrought by the terrible earthquake of 365 AD, and in particular the story of the destruction of a house called Filargyros, whose buried remains have become an excellent source of knowledge about that era.

There is another room on the first floor, which houses Mitsotakis’ private collection donated to the museum. It contains an absolute rarity – a stone seal engraved with the Minotaur, dated 1350 BC.

The exhibits are logically arranged, the most interesting ones are displayed and illuminated in an interesting way (I was delighted by the Minoan seal, jewellery, warriors’ graves and Roman mosaics), and clearly described. A leisurely stroll through all the rooms takes about 1.5 hours, and for those who are tired, there is a pleasant café with a terrace on the upper floor, offering an unobstructed, wonderful view of Chania and the Cretan Sea.

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The olive tree, its fruit, oil and wood

The olive tree, which we know and see today in many Mediterranean countries, has an extremely long history, growing alongside us and satisfying our needs with its wood, fruit and oil. For example, we know that as early as 100,000 years ago in Africa, its wood was certainly used as fuel, and people at that time may also have consumed olives. We also have evidence that it was cultivated in the Mediterranean basin as early as 7,000 years ago. In Crete, its importance as one of the basic crops (along with cereals and vines) reached a very high level in 3000 BC, and many scientists believe that its commercial cultivation and trade were the source of the wealth of the Minoan civilisation. At that time, however, olive oil was mainly used for lamps (including sacred ones), for skin and hair care, and for anointing. Since then, the olive tree and its fruit have held an unshakeable position as the main crop in the Mediterranean region, whether in Spain, Italy or Greece.

The name of the olive tree (Latin: Olea Europea) most likely derives from the Proto-Greek language, and its first written form appeared in the Mycenaean syllabic script Linear B (2200-1900 BC).

The olive tree has always been a symbol of wisdom, peace, strength, fertility and purity. This is not surprising, as the tree itself is quite remarkable. To thrive, it simply needs sunshine, a little water and well-drained soil. This is enough to keep it alive for hundreds, sometimes thousands, of years. In Crete, in the village of Vouves, 30 kilometres from Chania, you can see the famous olive tree, estimated to be between 2,000 and 4,000 years old. If you decide to visit this national monument, don’t miss the interesting Olive Tree Museum nearby.

Majestic, one of the most ancient olive trees in Crete (Astraka)

Today, Greece remains one of the leading producers of olive oil. Crete alone has about 30 million trees, and annual olive oil production reaches 120,000 metric tonnes, 80% of which is extra virgin olive oil. Although Greece ranks third as a European olive oil producer (after Spain and Italy), it proudly leads the world in olive oil consumption, with 24 litres per capita per year! This is not surprising, as its quality is the highest. The fresher the olive oil, the better. In Crete, olive oil production takes place immediately after the autumn harvest (October-November), the olives are crushed whole, and the greenish, intensely fragrant liquid fills bottles and cans. It is available for sale from December.

Cretan olive oil is mainly obtained from two varieties: Koronaiki and Tsounadi. The quality of the oil is excellent (as I mentioned earlier, 80% is Extra Virgin, which translates into low acidity – below 0.8% free acidity and a fruity flavour), but the oils naturally differ in taste depending on the region they come from. The Chania region is famous for the producers Chania Kritis and Kolymvari Chanion Kritis, whose oils are known for their slightly peppery taste. Those who prefer milder, less ‘demanding’ types can try olive oil from Kritsa or Sitia. For the more adventurous, many producers offer oils with added herbs (e.g. rosemary), lemon or orange peel.

In addition to buying olive oil, tourists are keen to choose from dozens of types of marinated olives, and often buy kitchen utensils or bowls made of hard, durable but very decorative olive wood.

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What (wild) creatures live and roam the wilderness of Crete?

Being an animal lover and a fan of Crete, I thought I had the perfect topic for a blog post.

However, exploring the topic turned out to be not entirely satisfactory, and the material I gathered was rather sparse. Well, Crete, being an island, is by definition practically devoid of predators, boasts a small number of mammals, and, in addition, human activity has decimated and limited the local fauna. Unfortunately, though once upon a time even small elephants lived there, now if someone spots a WILD animal in the wilderness or in a ravine, it immediately becomes an event, as if it were a great animal migration in Tanzania.

photo credit villaterracreta.com

But to the point, what can lucky and observant travellers hope to see? The most talked about animal is the wild and shy Cretan kri-kri goat (also known as agrimi), of which there are about 2,500 left. These goats are famous for their acrobatic agility, which allows them to stay on almost vertical rocky cliffs or outcrops. The males with long, twisted horns look particularly impressive. Currently, these animals can be found in the gorges of Samaria, Agia Irini or Tripiti and their wild surroundings. In an attempt to prevent the kri-kri from interbreeding with domestic goats (which were very eager to diversify their genetic makeup), many of them were transported to two uninhabited islands near Crete, Dia and Theodorou, but apparently they did not like the conditions there.

My dream would be to encounter the elusive and extremely rare Cretan wildcat (fourogatos). In all likelihood, there are only a few left on the island; in 2016, one individual was seen on the Lasithi plateau. These cats are larger than domestic cats and have thick fur covered with a distinctive pattern.

In addition to the animals mentioned above, there are many smaller mammals living on the island. We may encounter hedgehogs, rabbits, badgers, weasels, shrews, rats and bats. Interestingly, there are no foxes in Crete and therefore no problem with rabies.

Birds are also moderately represented, despite the fact that Crete lies on the migration route to Africa for many species, providing them with a convenient stopover on their long journey. In the mountains, look out for the impressive griffon vultures circling in search of food. The island is also home to golden eagles, bearded vultures, falcons and owls. Smaller but particularly beautifully coloured birds are represented by bee-eaters.

Among the reptiles, the magnificent Caretta turtles, which can measure 120-130 cm and weigh up to 160 kg, are sure to attract attention! These are sea turtles that come out of the sea 2-3 times a year to lay their eggs on the beach. They prepare a nesting site for about 100 eggs, each the size of a tennis ball, by digging a hole 50-100 cm deep. After laying their eggs, they carefully bury the hole and return to the sea.

Apart from turtles, Crete is home to several species of small geckos and lizards (only the Podarcis cretensis, or Cretan wall lizard, is endemic) and four species of completely harmless snakes, of which the leopard snake is particularly striking in appearance.

Photos from: discoveronfoot.com, cretanvioma.gr

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The Queen is one!

Khoriatki salata (Χωριάτικη σαλάτα) is one of the most classic Greek dishes. The ingredients of this salad, brilliant in its simplicity (rural in its name), are always the same in Greece, small variations are allowed. But really small ones, and I will defend this conviction like King Leonidas – Thermopylae.

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Right side photo taken at a lovely Demek, Koum Kapi, Chania

Well, the bowl should contain ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, which are juicy and sweet in the south, peppers (but green, green!), all chopped thickly and drizzled generously with the best quality olive oil. A thick slice of feta cheese is placed on top and sprinkled with Greek oregano. Often you’ll also find black olives, white wine vinegar for a little acidity, and a little salt, although in my opinion good feta is salty enough. It is standard to serve bread with choriatiki, usually unsophisticated but good enough to soak up the remaining juice at the bottom of the bowl.

There is nothing better in hot weather, when the crisp and cool vegetables release their juices and flavours with every bite, the friendly human bustle echoes in the background and the air smells of sun, herbs, sea and freedom.

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Aptera – little explored, yet dazzling

Ancient Aptera, a 30-minute drive east of Chania, stretches across a plateau near the hill of Paliokastro, which dominates the south-eastern part of Souda Bay. Recent archaeological research suggests that settlement in this area began in the 11th-12th century BC.

The 3,480-metre-long defensive wall surrounding the main settlement was built before the mid-4th century BC. The city enjoyed an era of prosperity during the Roman period, but after a terrible earthquake in the 7th century, it was so badly damaged that it was not until the 12th century that it became a significant urban centre again and played an important role until the Venetian period (16th and 17th centuries).

In today’s Aptera, visitors can admire the remains of ancient fortifications, three cemeteries from different periods, Roman cisterns and baths, as well as an ancient theatre, which has recently been partially restored, with comfortable steps leading to the stage, called skene.

I found Aptera charming, atmospheric and simply beautiful. Perhaps it was its beautiful location between the sea and the mountains, perhaps the vastness of the settlement, or perhaps the fact that there were so few other people there during my visit, but it made a greater impression on me than Knossos.

On the practical side, tickets cost €10 and there is convenient parking for visitors.

As the site is largely unsheltered, you should bring water, sunscreen and a hat.

You can also, and this is what I would suggest, visit this place during the golden hour, both for the temperature and the magnificent views.

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Maridaki – seafood restaurant

It is a place of reference in Chania when it comes to fresh fish and seafood. The restaurant is located very near Splantzia square, offers outside and inside tables spread on two floors. It is always bustling with the sounds of conversation, laughter, the clatter of cutlery and plates, and waiters rushing about.

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Open air street market

On Saturdays, don’t miss the market with fresh fruit and vegetables. You will find it on Minoos Street in Chania, a 5-minute walk from the apartment.

Authentic Feta cheese
Variety of olives
Stalls heavy from delicacies
Want to live longer
Make yourself a garden of
Fruits and vegetables.

 by Hugo Sarvida Jr.
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Splantzia (Square)

The area has a long and interesting history, going all the way back to the Venetian era. Back then, it was called Ponte Dei Viari, which means ‘bridge of the viari’ in Italian. This was because there was a bridge that connected the eastern gate of the Kasteli settlement with modern Daskalogianni Street and Splantzia Square. The bridge was named after a rich Venetian family who helped the city out when it was down on its luck. The area had lots of underground water, which explains why there were underground Venetian water tanks that could supply the city for six whole months. The current St. Nicholas Church was originally the monastery’s temple, which was run by the Order of the Dominican monks. It was built in 1320. After the Turks took over in 1645, they turned the church into a mosque called Houghiar Tzamissi – Hünkâr Camisi, by adding a minaret on the south side of the building.

The Splantzia district after the Turks had been made to leave it (and whole Crete) entirely in the 1920s was synonymous with neglectand rough neighbourhood. However in recent years it has cleaned up its act, with many of its houses renovated, lots of young and alternative businesses popping up, and it has transformed into the most independent district of the old town. Fortunately, it has not yet succumbed to mass tourism, so it retains its local atmosphere, making it ideal for those seeking refuge rather than a tourist hotspot. The centrepiece of the neighbourhood is the historic square, officially known as ‘Plateia 1821’, with the equally historic Dominican church of St. Nicholas mentioned before. Either at the square or just a few steps away, you will find everything you need: a bakery, a mini-market, a pharmacy, a bookshop, a laundrette, as well as many interesting and high-quality restaurants and bars. Some of them are located right next to the square, under an old tree, which offers a pleasant place to relax on hot summer days and nights.

Some information in the post come from www.chaniatourism.gr

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Wine and olive tasting in Anoskeli

Wine tasting at Anoskeli Olive Mill and Winery, Chania region, Crete.

Another relaxing and short trip from Thimari Gardens took us to Anoskeli Olive Mill and Winery. It takes about 35 minutes to reach the rolling hills where this place is located.

Tasting sessions at Anoskeli are led by an experienced sommelier and include olive oil tasting, wine tasting and food pairing.

We opted for the Signature wine tasting and had the opportunity to try their excellent, very fresh olive oil and six different wines with vegetarian food in our case.

Both the wine and food were beautifully presented, the tasting room was tastefully decorated, and the view of the green hills and the sea only enhanced the experience.

Wine and olive oil production at Anoskeli is very limited, and because their olive oil has won numerous international awards, it is very popular and difficult to buy anywhere else. We only saw their wine labels once in the Votani shop on Dakalogianni Street in Chania.

This type of attraction costs €18 per person, but in our opinion, anyone who is even slightly interested in oenology and, more broadly, Greek flavours, will enjoy it.