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Nistisimo – Greek-style fasting

I believe that everyone has heard about Orthodox monasteries in Greece. The monastic cuisine is a culinary tradition naturally shaped by centuries of Orthodox Christian fasting, local agricultural practices, and in case of Crete abundant natural resources. Cretan monks cook with fresh vegetableswild greenslegumes, and grains, all seasoned with local herbs like oregano, thyme, marjoram, and fennel.

Agia Triada Monastery in Crete

photo credit allincrete.com

Both, the attitude and the practice is shared by plenty of the faithfull and as there are numerous days associated with religious holidays in Greece, many who wish to follow the recommendations of the church may and do fast or follow a restrictive diet for up to two hundred days a year.

Fasting was and is intended to prepare us for the coming holiday, to cleanse our bodies, but also indirectly our souls, to make us lighter. Its purpose was also to instil discipline in us, to teach us to limit ourselves and to appreciate what we have.

Nowadays, we read a lot about the growing popularity of intermittent fasting, which contributes to weight loss, but also to improved health and well-being.

Vegetarianism and veganism, which are becoming increasingly widespread, are an expression of a deep concern for animals, the climate and resources.

All these aspects indicate that it may be worth taking advantage of the wide range of excellent dishes that have been part of the cuisine of the Balkan countries and the Middle East for centuries.

I do not plan to describe the holidays and diets associated with them in detail, but for those interested, I highly recommend Georgina Hayden’s cookbook ‘Nistisima’, which inspired me to write this post. Instead, I will focus on a few interesting facts:

– Some holidays allow the consumption of seafood, but it is important that the creatures do not have a spine (e.g. mussels and taramosalata – a salad with roe – are allowed).

– Often, olive oil is not allowed. This is because in the past it was stored in sheep’s skin.

– Almond milk, a substitute for cow’s milk, has been known in Greece, Cyprus and the eastern Mediterranean for a very long time. It is called soumada. In Crete, it is made with a mixture of fresh, locally-grown almonds, sugar, and water, which is simmered in sugar syrup to create this drink.

The most popular vegetarian dishes available daily in traditional Greek restaurants are:

Fava – split pea paste

Dolmades – grape leaves stuffed with seasoned rice, sometimes with pine nuts or raisins

Gemista – stuffed vegetables

Lachanorizo – cabbage and rice stew

Melitzanosalata – eggplant dip

Kolokithoanthi – stuffed courgette flowers

Briam – roasted vegetables medley

This one in the photo is homemade, but still (or maybe more) delicious !

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Greek mezedes – dips

The first thing that comes to mind when I think of Greek cuisine is the simplicity of the dishes, their freshness and the social aspect of eating, i.e. enjoying delicacies together and sharing them. In Greece, hardly anyone eats alone, and as proof of how deeply and long this has been rooted in the culture, there is a whole selection of tiny dishes, appetisers, or as the Greeks say – mezedes (from the singular meze), which we share while sitting at a common table. Meze(des) always occupy a large part of the menu in restaurants and taverns, and it often happens that a few selected from the menu constitute a whole meal for several people.

photo credit wwwkrasiboston.com

Some Greek appetisers are served hot, others cold, and the vast majority are vegetarian or vegan (in Greek, we would use the word nistisima, meaning fasting).

Here, I will write about four extremely popular dip-type appetisers. The first of these is tzatziki, which is a staple on 90% of menus. Tzatziki is a thick Greek yoghurt-based sauce mixed with finely chopped or grated fresh cucumber, dill and garlic. It is extremely refreshing on hot days.

Another dip served with bread or pita is fava. It is a delicious paste made from yellow split peas, seasoned with onion, garlic and lemon. Due to the availability of ingredients, it is one of the oldest known dishes. Archaeological excavations confirm that the peas needed to prepare fava were grown in Santorini over 3,500 years ago.

Another delicacy, sometimes called a dip, sometimes a salad, is melitzanosalata, which is roasted and peeled aubergine, garlic, olive oil and lemon. This dish is best when the aubergine is roasted whole and its skin has had a chance to brown a little – the dish then takes on a smoky aroma. Some people add chopped walnuts, which give it a little crunch.

The last dip requires the use of feta, the most famous Greek cheese. It is called tirokafteri and, apart from the cheese, it contains roasted peppers, chilli peppers, olive oil, vinegar and garlic. This appetiser is creamy and spicy, a real flavour bomb!

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Milia – mountain retreat and restaurant

Milia is a secret known only to those in the know, but I will share it with you.

To reach this magical place, nestled between mountains and gorges, you have to drive for over an hour from Chania, and the road winds like a snake, eventually turning into a dirt track.

At the end of the journey, a unique place awaits us, beautiful in its simplicity and fidelity to tradition. Milia is now a tourist resort, but it is housed in beautifully restored cottages that were once part of a mountain settlement. The owners have put a lot of work into creating such an atmospheric and authentic place from the remains of medieval buildings.

Milia is not only an eco-friendly retreat, but it also boasts one of the best restaurants in Crete. Word of honour!

In line with the philosophy of the place, the dishes are prepared with local products, some of which come from their own garden, and although the recipies are essentially Cretan, they often feature an innovative approach.

If you want to eat there, I recommend booking a table in advance, especially during the holiday season.

Milia offers more than acommodation or dining experience, though. Several walking trails start there, ranging from leisurely walks to long, demanding trails in the surrounding mountains and gorges (e.g.Topolia Gorge Circuit, Sirikari Gorge).

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Dolmadakia

In fact, in every tavern, and certainly in a traditional Greek tavern, you will find dolmades (or dolmadakia, the diminutive form) among the starters. What is it? Of the dishes known to us Poles, it most resembles stuffed cabbage rolls, except that it has a vegan filling based on rice with onion, parsley and herbs, which is formed into neat oblong parcels using young grape leaves.

Although the roots of this dish are Turkish, it is now considered typically Greek, served cold, lightly drizzled with olive oil, but I have also eaten it warm with yoghurt to break up the flavour.

It is worth mentioning that during the season when they are available, courgette flowers are also stuffed with the same filling. It tastes like heaven and the chefs at To Stachi in Chania are masters at preparing them.

This reminds me of a little anecdote. Twenty years ago, I attended my first Greek language course. It took place in Warsaw, at the Olimp Society, and the classes were taught by Lefteris Tsirmirakis, who was already quite elderly at the time, but still full of vigour and wit. Our teacher found himself in Poland shortly after the war, fleeing the persecution that threatened all members of the Communist Party of Greece, especially the partisans. In Poland, he started a family, marrying a Polish woman. He was a great Greek patriot and tried to infect us with his fascination for his country of origin. He did this by sometimes bringing delicacies to class that he had grown up with in the Thessaloniki area. One day, he brought dolmadakia made by his Polish wife and was clearly proud that she knew how to prepare this typical Greek delicacy so well 🙂

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To Stachi slow food

If you are a vegetarian (or not!), you must go there. A wide selection of vegan and vegetarian dishes that will satisfy all palates. Non-alcoholic beers and wines, natural wines – you are sure to find something to accompany your meal. On top of that the intergenerational family that runs the restaurant are the lovliest people in town!

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Maridaki – seafood restaurant

It is a place of reference in Chania when it comes to fresh fish and seafood. The restaurant is located very near Splantzia square, offers outside and inside tables spread on two floors. It is always bustling with the sounds of conversation, laughter, the clatter of cutlery and plates, and waiters rushing about.