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What (wild) creatures live and roam the wilderness of Crete?

Being an animal lover and a fan of Crete, I thought I had the perfect topic for a blog post.

However, exploring the topic turned out to be not entirely satisfactory, and the material I gathered was rather sparse. Well, Crete, being an island, is by definition practically devoid of predators, boasts a small number of mammals, and, in addition, human activity has decimated and limited the local fauna. Unfortunately, though once upon a time even small elephants lived there, now if someone spots a WILD animal in the wilderness or in a ravine, it immediately becomes an event, as if it were a great animal migration in Tanzania.

photo credit villaterracreta.com

But to the point, what can lucky and observant travellers hope to see? The most talked about animal is the wild and shy Cretan kri-kri goat (also known as agrimi), of which there are about 2,500 left. These goats are famous for their acrobatic agility, which allows them to stay on almost vertical rocky cliffs or outcrops. The males with long, twisted horns look particularly impressive. Currently, these animals can be found in the gorges of Samaria, Agia Irini or Tripiti and their wild surroundings. In an attempt to prevent the kri-kri from interbreeding with domestic goats (which were very eager to diversify their genetic makeup), many of them were transported to two uninhabited islands near Crete, Dia and Theodorou, but apparently they did not like the conditions there.

My dream would be to encounter the elusive and extremely rare Cretan wildcat (fourogatos). In all likelihood, there are only a few left on the island; in 2016, one individual was seen on the Lasithi plateau. These cats are larger than domestic cats and have thick fur covered with a distinctive pattern.

In addition to the animals mentioned above, there are many smaller mammals living on the island. We may encounter hedgehogs, rabbits, badgers, weasels, shrews, rats and bats. Interestingly, there are no foxes in Crete and therefore no problem with rabies.

Birds are also moderately represented, despite the fact that Crete lies on the migration route to Africa for many species, providing them with a convenient stopover on their long journey. In the mountains, look out for the impressive griffon vultures circling in search of food. The island is also home to golden eagles, bearded vultures, falcons and owls. Smaller but particularly beautifully coloured birds are represented by bee-eaters.

Among the reptiles, the magnificent Caretta turtles, which can measure 120-130 cm and weigh up to 160 kg, are sure to attract attention! These are sea turtles that come out of the sea 2-3 times a year to lay their eggs on the beach. They prepare a nesting site for about 100 eggs, each the size of a tennis ball, by digging a hole 50-100 cm deep. After laying their eggs, they carefully bury the hole and return to the sea.

Apart from turtles, Crete is home to several species of small geckos and lizards (only the Podarcis cretensis, or Cretan wall lizard, is endemic) and four species of completely harmless snakes, of which the leopard snake is particularly striking in appearance.

Photos from: discoveronfoot.com, cretanvioma.gr

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The Queen is one!

Khoriatki salata (Χωριάτικη σαλάτα) is one of the most classic Greek dishes. The ingredients of this salad, brilliant in its simplicity (rural in its name), are always the same in Greece, small variations are allowed. But really small ones, and I will defend this conviction like King Leonidas – Thermopylae.

Well, the bowl should contain ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, which are juicy and sweet in the south, peppers (but green, green!), all chopped thickly and drizzled generously with the best quality olive oil. A thick slice of feta cheese is placed on top and sprinkled with Greek oregano. Often you’ll also find black olives, white wine vinegar for a little acidity, and a little salt, although in my opinion good feta is salty enough. It is standard to serve bread with choriatiki, usually unsophisticated but good enough to soak up the remaining juice at the bottom of the bowl.

There is nothing better in hot weather, when the crisp and cool vegetables release their juices and flavours with every bite, the friendly human bustle echoes in the background and the air smells of sun, herbs, sea and freedom.

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Contact

Our property – Thimari Gardens – is located in the old town of Chania, Crete, Greece. The exact address of our home is :

11, Vourdoumpa, 731 32 Chania

If you are interested in renting our property, either short or long-term, send a request email on thimarigardens@gmail com or aniolmagritta@gmail.com.

Our property is also rented via Booking.com and Airbnb and its official registration number is 00002853123.

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Frangocastello – beach and castle in the south

It is a little bit longer trip (80 km) but what awaits you at your destintation is double worth it. We are heading South, to Frangocastello and its beautiful beach.

Frangocastello is a small village of no apparent appeal, but what does have tons of charm and beauty is the sandy, child-friendly, peaceful and laid-back beach located just by the Venetian castle which gave the village its name. The castle, what is interesting, played a significant role in the Greek War of Independance.

To spoil you further, when you turn your eyes from the beach towards the land you will see the range of majestic White Mountains (Lefka Ori).

If you like variety, you will easily reach in 10-15 minutes on foot smaller but rocky or pebbly beaches laying eastwards.  There, you can eat in a lovely Sunrise taverna.

If you need more choice for food or a livelier spot, head to Chora Sfakion (12 km away from Frangocastello).

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Aptera – little explored, yet dazzling

Ancient Aptera, a 30-minute drive east of Chania, stretches across a plateau near the hill of Paliokastro, which dominates the south-eastern part of Souda Bay. Recent archaeological research suggests that settlement in this area began in the 11th-12th century BC.

The 3,480-metre-long defensive wall surrounding the main settlement was built before the mid-4th century BC. The city enjoyed an era of prosperity during the Roman period, but after a terrible earthquake in the 7th century, it was so badly damaged that it was not until the 12th century that it became a significant urban centre again and played an important role until the Venetian period (16th and 17th centuries).

In today’s Aptera, visitors can admire the remains of ancient fortifications, three cemeteries from different periods, Roman cisterns and baths, as well as an ancient theatre, which has recently been partially restored, with comfortable steps leading to the stage, called skene.

I found Aptera charming, atmospheric and simply beautiful. Perhaps it was its beautiful location between the sea and the mountains, perhaps the vastness of the settlement, or perhaps the fact that there were so few other people there during my visit, but it made a greater impression on me than Knossos.

On the practical side, tickets cost €10 and there is convenient parking for visitors.

As the site is largely unsheltered, you should bring water, sunscreen and a hat.

You can also, and this is what I would suggest, visit this place during the golden hour, both for the temperature and the magnificent views.

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Nea Chora beach

If you like basking on the sand, we recommend Nea Chora beach, which is valued by users for its clean, soft sand, many bars and restaurants nearby, but is not overcrowded. You can reach this beach on foot in 25 minutes or take bus number 11 and get there in a quarter of an hour.

Nea Chora beach and its whereabouts may turn into an eerie and strangely beautiful place during evil weather spells. Kalima (Saharan sandstorm) transforms it into a science fiction film scene and light rain and wind do not deter kids from playing there.

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To Stachi slow food

If you are a vegetarian (or not!), you must go there. A wide selection of vegan and vegetarian dishes that will satisfy all palates. Non-alcoholic beers and wines, natural wines – you are sure to find something to accompany your meal. On top of that the intergenerational family that runs the restaurant are the lovliest people in town!

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Maridaki – seafood restaurant

It is a place of reference in Chania when it comes to fresh fish and seafood. The restaurant is located very near Splantzia square, offers outside and inside tables spread on two floors. It is always bustling with the sounds of conversation, laughter, the clatter of cutlery and plates, and waiters rushing about.

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Open air street market

On Saturdays, don’t miss the market with fresh fruit and vegetables. You will find it on Minoos Street in Chania, a 5-minute walk from the apartment.