First, let’s determine when winter begins and ends in Crete.
Plouti, central CretePloutiChania to MiliaTabakaria, Chania
According to the calendar, one could say that it begins on 22 December, but that is not entirely true. Winter begins when the crowds of tourists stop coming, that’s all. In Crete, this means the beginning or, at the latest, the middle of November. By the same token, spring begins in early March, although here the calendar loses out to the logic of the nature of the Mediterranean climate.
Hiking trail near MiliaOld town, ChaniaApproaching Thimari GardensFrangokastelloNot far from Xerokampos
Winter, or the low season, is a time of calm, peace and respite for the people on the island, but also a time of rushing clouds interspersed with the dazzling blue of the sky; turquoise sea by the calm coves, but also waves crashing onto pavements and piers. On the one hand, nature loses its exuberant riot of colours, becomes quieter, turns grey in places, and sepia and smoky shades appear. But on the other hand, winter rains also bring the long-awaited moisture, and where in August there were burnt herbs and brushwood underfoot, now there are green carpets. We also encounter flowers, not as spectacular or lush as in summer, but perhaps all the more sought after and appreciated.
Some trees also bear fruit in winter. From November to January, olives are harvested, bitter oranges, saturated with rain and juices, bend delicate branches to the ground, and you can taste the sensually red berries from the wild strawberry tree.
Fresh olives, some ripe but inedible. Must be cured.Strawberry treeStrawberry treeBitter orange tree, viewed from Thimari Gardens
Sometimes they allow us to peek inside, often strictly shielding what is private or secret. They speak of the status of the residents, their ups and downs. Some demand that we stop respectfully and use a knocker or bell, while others allow us to glance inside through a crack worn by time. Sometimes, half-open, they invite guests in. They show time, its passage, history, civilisational changes, and bear traces of wars, shootings and protests.
Crete is full of wonderful stories, many of which can be admired or deciphered in its ancient portals, medieval monastery gates, ornate Venetian doors with arched lintels, or distinctive red details from the Ottoman era.
In this post, I will tell you about an outstanding artist who was born in Crete, where he received his early education, before going on to become a respected and generously rewarded artist in his own time. Nearly forgotten for two centuries, suddenly, at the end of the XIX century he got rediscovered, diligently studied and admired again till our times.
El Greco’s “Portrait of an Old Man,” believed to be a self-portrait, 1595. Credit: Public Domain
I am writing about Domenikos Theotokopoulos, known by the pseudonym El Greco. The artist was born in 1541 in Crete, near present-day Heraklion (then Candia), in the tiny village of Fodele. We must remember that at that time Crete was under the rule of the Venetian Republic, which directly influenced El Greco’s life, his fate, but also the subjects and style of his painting. It is worth mentioning that the influence of Venice did not extend to the artist’s religion though, which is remarkable considering the content of his works. It is believed that he remained an Orthodox Greek until his death.
Perivleptos church – frescoes of present day Mistra ,Credits: goworldtravel.com
Domenikos Theotokopoulos initially trained in Greece. Researchers assume that he may have apprenticed at the then-famous school in Mistra in the Peloponnese, which instructed fresco painters.
Experts on his painting associate the recognisable features of his works, such as mysticism, spirituality and a peculiar tendency to elongate figures, with this school (Zawanowski, 1979). The style of his paintings from that period also suggests that he studied icon painting.
Not many paintings from the period he spent in his homeland have survived to this day, but The Dormition of Mary from 1567 and Saint Luke Painting Mary with the Child from 1560-67 are certainly considered to be among them. They reveal his training in icon painting and both are signed CHEIR DOMENIKOU. The paintings from his Cretan period are painted in tempera on a wooden support.
Credits: wikiart.com
After leaving Crete, Domeniko went to Venice, the artistic centre of the world at that time. There, he joined the Greek community, which at that time numbered 600 members. His work was undoubtedly influenced by Venetian painters such as Titian, Tintoretto and Jacopo Bassano. Researchers believe that he may have apprenticed with one of them, most likely the last one mentioned. At this time, the painter abandoned flat, gilded backgrounds and began painting on raw canvas. He began to use oil paints. Motifs characteristic of the European style appeared in his work. An example of his work from that period is the Modena Triptych, an altarpiece created between 1560 and 1565.
Credits: wikimedia.org
El Greco’s next stop was Rome. Experts agree that his stay in this city had the greatest influence on the direction of the painter’s life. He came under the protection and patronage of Cardinal Alessandro Farnese and met humanists and art patrons who would become his future clients (e.g. Fulvio Orsini, who eventually acquired seven paintings by the master from Greece). He was able to admire and critically study the works of Raphael and Michelangelo.
His painting style became more colourful and featured several light sources. The artist expanded the subject matter of his works to include portraits. He enrolled in the Guild of St. Luke in Rome under the nickname Domenico Greco. He even opened his own studio, but the competition in Rome at the time was overwhelming and did not allow him to make a name for himself there. Ultimately, he gave up his attempts to spread his wings there after the events mentioned by Giulio Mancini. According to anecdotal evidence, the painter proposed to Pius V that he cover the Sistine Chapel with new frescoes, wanting to replace Michelangelo’s admired but criticised Last Judgement with his own artistic vision. It was probably this risky proposal that forced the painter to leave Rome.
El Greco arrived in Spain, first in Madrid, then around 1576 he moved to Toledo (until recently the capital of Spain), where he received a commission to create the main altar with sculptures and paintings in the monastery of St. Dominic of Silos. and after completing the commission, he decided to settle there. Three years later, he managed to secure the commission he had been hoping for since setting foot in Spain. King Philip II commissioned a painting from the artist, who spent two years creating The Martyrdom of St. Maurice, which he hoped would open the door to work on decorating the famous Escorial (a monumental architectural complex of palaces, monasteries and libraries in San Lorenzo de El Escorial, 45 kilometres north-west of Madrid). Unfortunately, Philip II did not like the painting enough to hang it in the newly built palace. However, it did find its way into the royal collection.
Credits: wikiarts.org
El Greco’s work was strongly influenced by the socio-political situation of the time. In conservative Spain, El Greco had to deal with the Inquisition, and the famous ‘Portrait of a Cardinal’ most likely depicts the Grand Inquisitor of Toledo, Ferdinand Nino de Guevara.
Credits: spanishbaroqueart.tumblr.com
Another admired painting from that period is ‘The Burial of the Count of Orgaz’ (1586-88), which is evidence of the artist’s development of a new Baroque style. Among the people immortalised as participants in the ceremony, many figures contemporary to the painter can be recognised, as well as El Greco himself (the nobleman directly above St. Stephen) and his son, Jorge Manuel (the page). The artist placed his signature on a handkerchief in the young page’s pocket. It bears the date 1578, which is not the date the painting was created, but the date of his son’s birth.
Credits: wikipedia.com
His son was born from his relationship (most likely marriage, as it is difficult to imagine the Spanish elite of that time functioning on any other basis) with Jeronima de las Guevas. It is believed that the artist’s wife could be seen portrayed as Magdalene in the painting ‘The Disrobing of Saint Luke’.
Credits: wikiart.org
It is difficult to estimate how many works El Greco left behind. The numbers range from 200 to over 800 (including variants). Most of them are religious paintings, portraits of saints (128 Francises!).
Domenikos Theotokoplos died on 7 April 1614, but since the church where his ashes were laid to rest was demolished, his burial place no longer exists.
When you are in Crete, you can visit Fodele, the village where the artist was born. There is a small museum dedicated to him, where some replicas of his paintings are exhibited.
The Historical Museum of Crete in Heraklion presents two of his original works – ‘The Baptism of Jesus’ and ‘View of Mount Sinai and St. Catherine’s Monastery’, both from the artist’s Venetian period.
In writng this post, I used the following sources: Historia Brzydoty, U. Eco, 2007, wikipedia.com, wszystkoconajwazniejsze.pl
I believe that everyone has heard about Orthodox monasteries in Greece. The monastic cuisine is a culinary tradition naturally shaped by centuries of Orthodox Christian fasting, local agricultural practices, and in case of Crete abundant natural resources. Cretan monks cook with fresh vegetables, wild greens, legumes, and grains, all seasoned with local herbs like oregano, thyme, marjoram, and fennel.
Agia Triada Monastery in Crete
photo credit allincrete.com
Both, the attitude and the practice is shared by plenty of the faithfull and as there are numerous days associated with religious holidays in Greece, many who wish to follow the recommendations of the church may and do fast or follow a restrictive diet for up to two hundred days a year.
Fasting was and is intended to prepare us for the coming holiday, to cleanse our bodies, but also indirectly our souls, to make us lighter. Its purpose was also to instil discipline in us, to teach us to limit ourselves and to appreciate what we have.
Nowadays, we read a lot about the growing popularity of intermittent fasting, which contributes to weight loss, but also to improved health and well-being.
Vegetarianism and veganism, which are becoming increasingly widespread, are an expression of a deep concern for animals, the climate and resources.
All these aspects indicate that it may be worth taking advantage of the wide range of excellent dishes that have been part of the cuisine of the Balkan countries and the Middle East for centuries.
I do not plan to describe the holidays and diets associated with them in detail, but for those interested, I highly recommend Georgina Hayden’s cookbook ‘Nistisima’, which inspired me to write this post. Instead, I will focus on a few interesting facts:
– Some holidays allow the consumption of seafood, but it is important that the creatures do not have a spine (e.g. mussels and taramosalata – a salad with roe – are allowed).
– Often, olive oil is not allowed. This is because in the past it was stored in sheep’s skin.
– Almond milk, a substitute for cow’s milk, has been known in Greece, Cyprus and the eastern Mediterranean for a very long time. It is called soumada. In Crete, it is made with a mixture of fresh, locally-grown almonds, sugar, and water, which is simmered in sugar syrup to create this drink.
The most popular vegetarian dishes available daily in traditional Greek restaurants are:
Fava – split pea paste
Dolmades – grape leaves stuffed with seasoned rice, sometimes with pine nuts or raisins
Gemista – stuffed vegetables
Lachanorizo – cabbage and rice stew
Melitzanosalata – eggplant dip
Kolokithoanthi – stuffed courgette flowers
Briam – roasted vegetables medley
This one in the photo is homemade, but still (or maybe more) delicious !
This post was inspired by and used some information from the book ‘Nistisima’ by Georgina Hayden
The Second World War began for Greece not without warning, but suddenly.
Shortly after 3 a.m. on 28 October 1940, Greek Prime Minister Ioannis Metaxas was harshly awakened by the envoy of Italian Ambassador Emanuele Grazzi. The Greek Prime Minister was presented with a written ultimatum. Italy, led by Benito Mussolini, together with the Axis powers, demanded access to strategic positions in Greece. Rejection of this condition would mean the start of war. Prime Minister Metaxas proudly replied to the ultimatum, ‘Alors, c’est la guerre!’, which means ‘Then we have war!’ in French.
Ioannis Metaxas
photo credit omilo.com
However, in popular historical accounts, reinforced by memories of protesters shouting ‘όχι!’ which means ‘no!’ at the news of the Italian ultimatum, the Greek Prime Minister’s response has been perpetuated as ‘όχι!’.
Italy’s response was immediate. Less than three hours after Prime Minister Metaxas’s tough retort, Italian troops began hostilities by attacking from Albania.
photo credit dcstamps.com
At first, the war in Greece was fought mainly in the wild mountains of Epirus, where, to Mussolini’s great surprise, Greek guerrillas (antarates) managed to force the Italian army to retreat. It was only a massive attack by the Axis powers in April 1941 that forced Greece to surrender and marked the beginning of a bloody occupation that lasted until October 1944 (the German garrison in Crete remained until May 1945).
photo credit dailycrete.com
The anniversary of the events of 1940 is an important holiday in Greece. Offices, schools and many businesses are closed on this day. Patriotic parades are organised, white and blue flags fly everywhere, people sing and listen to patriotic songs and cafés and restaurants are filled with the Greek proudly celebrating this historic event.
The first thing that comes to mind when I think of Greek cuisine is the simplicity of the dishes, their freshness and the social aspect of eating, i.e. enjoying delicacies together and sharing them. In Greece, hardly anyone eats alone, and as proof of how deeply and long this has been rooted in the culture, there is a whole selection of tiny dishes, appetisers, or as the Greeks say – mezedes (from the singular meze), which we share while sitting at a common table. Meze(des) always occupy a large part of the menu in restaurants and taverns, and it often happens that a few selected from the menu constitute a whole meal for several people.
photo credit wwwkrasiboston.com
Some Greek appetisers are served hot, others cold, and the vast majority are vegetarian or vegan (in Greek, we would use the word nistisima, meaning fasting).
Here, I will write about four extremely popular dip-type appetisers. The first of these is tzatziki, which is a staple on 90% of menus. Tzatziki is a thick Greek yoghurt-based sauce mixed with finely chopped or grated fresh cucumber, dill and garlic. It is extremely refreshing on hot days.
Another dip served with bread or pita is fava. It is a delicious paste made from yellow split peas, seasoned with onion, garlic and lemon. Due to the availability of ingredients, it is one of the oldest known dishes. Archaeological excavations confirm that the peas needed to prepare fava were grown in Santorini over 3,500 years ago.
Another delicacy, sometimes called a dip, sometimes a salad, is melitzanosalata, which is roasted and peeled aubergine, garlic, olive oil and lemon. This dish is best when the aubergine is roasted whole and its skin has had a chance to brown a little – the dish then takes on a smoky aroma. Some people add chopped walnuts, which give it a little crunch.
The last dip requires the use of feta, the most famous Greek cheese. It is called tirokafteri and, apart from the cheese, it contains roasted peppers, chilli peppers, olive oil, vinegar and garlic. This appetiser is creamy and spicy, a real flavour bomb!
Breakfast category. If you don’t want to limit yourself to a sweet or savoury pastry from a nearby bakery in the morning, head to Ntouroudous: a patisserie, breakfast spot and shop all in one. Ntouroudous is a large establishment consisting of shop counters beautifully displaying products, refrigerators, cash registers and a few bar stools on the ground floor, and a large number of tables for guests on the first floor.
photo credit tripadvisor.com
There are QR codes on the tables with access to the menu, and there are also many electrical sockets, which tourists will appreciate.
The menu is extensive, ranging from Greek-style sweet pastries (kalitsounia among others) and French-style pastries (of course, croissants are the most popular, with a large selection available), to toast, sandwiches, salads, pancakes and bowls. The establishment offers a full selection of coffees, and you can also enjoy juice.
photo credit chaniacityapp.gr
I would like to point out that both vegetarians and vegans will find something for themselves.
After breakfast, you can treat yourself to something from the shop. Perhaps some thyme honey, delicious cookies or a jar of gliko to koutaliou (spoon sweets – sweet preserves, served in a spoon as a gesture of hospitality).
This is another attraction available in the city, aimed at young and old, beginners and certified divers alike.
I have experience with one company, but I assume that others with good reviews operate similarly. My 11-and-a-half-year-old daughter had the opportunity to try diving with Blue Adventures Diving Centre, whose centre is located 300 metres from Thimari Gardens. The option we chose involved entering the water from the beach, not a boat.
First, everyone taking a dip on that day underwent a short theoretical training session. I must admit that the information was conveyed efficiently and clearly, and my daughter had no difficulty understanding it, even though English is not her first language.
Then, with wetsuits, boots, fins and tanks selected, everyone headed to the 150-metre-away Koum Kapi beach under the supervision of an instructor.The weather was beautiful and sunny that day, with not too much wind, which guaranteed a smooth descent into the water and wonderful views.
My daughter had a personal dive master who guided her through all the stages until she dived with a tank quite far from the shore.
After an hour, she came out of the water happy, excited and ready for more!
If I had to choose an inviting gorge to start with, one that is not too demanding, not too long, offers plenty of excitement and is not too far from Chania, it would be Imbros Gorge.
The gorge (Greek: Φαράγγι Ίμπρου, Faragi Imbrou) is an 11 km long canyon located near Hora Sfakion in southern Crete. It runs parallel to Samariá Gorge, its narrowest part is 1.60 m wide and it ends at the village of Kommitádes (8 km/ 650 m for hiking).
It is a historical fact that The Imbros Gorge was used for the retreat of allied troops during the end of Operation Merkur (20th May 1941 – 1st June 1941). Between 28th and 31st May 1941, allied troops were evacuated from Chora Sfakion before heading to Egypt.
For those who reach Imbros with their own car from Chania (54 km/1h10min), they can leave it in the car park at the entrance , behind the village of Askifou, then pass the gorge and return to the car park with a taxi from Kommitádes or walk through the gorge all the way back again, as it is not so tiring. An additional attraction may be returning to the car park in the back of an open pick-up truck. It’s great fun, and the views are breathtaking.
It takes 2-3 hours to cross the gorge, it does not require climbing or wading, and the route is often shaded. You can safely go with children, both small ones in a baby carrier and older ones, 7-8 years old, they can do it. I know what I’m talking about, I’ve done both! Just do not forget your sturdy walking boots and water.
It takes a lifetime for someone to discover Greece, but it only takes an instant to fall in love with her – Henry Miller.
About
My name is Marta, a Pole with Greece in heart. I am also a living proof that longlife dreams can come true. I always dreamt of having my place in beloved Greece and now here it is! And not just anywhere, but in the most wonderful city, steeped in the culture of ancient Greece, the Venetian Republic and the Ottoman Empire, my dream city of Chania, Crete.
This blog aims at promoting Crete, Chania but also our home there- Thimari Gardens - which is seasonally rented out. More information about the apartment is available when you press the tab above named Thimari Gardens.
If you wish to ask about our rental offer, send an email at thimarigardens@gmail.com