Ancient Aptera, a 30-minute drive east of Chania, stretches across a plateau near the hill of Paliokastro, which dominates the south-eastern part of Souda Bay. Recent archaeological research suggests that settlement in this area began in the 11th-12th century BC.
The 3,480-metre-long defensive wall surrounding the main settlement was built before the mid-4th century BC. The city enjoyed an era of prosperity during the Roman period, but after a terrible earthquake in the 7th century, it was so badly damaged that it was not until the 12th century that it became a significant urban centre again and played an important role until the Venetian period (16th and 17th centuries).
In today’s Aptera, visitors can admire the remains of ancient fortifications, three cemeteries from different periods, Roman cisterns and baths, as well as an ancient theatre, which has recently been partially restored, with comfortable steps leading to the stage, called skene.
I found Aptera charming, atmospheric and simply beautiful. Perhaps it was its beautiful location between the sea and the mountains, perhaps the vastness of the settlement, or perhaps the fact that there were so few other people there during my visit, but it made a greater impression on me than Knossos.
On the practical side, tickets cost €10 and there is convenient parking for visitors.
As the site is largely unsheltered, you should bring water, sunscreen and a hat.
You can also, and this is what I would suggest, visit this place during the golden hour, both for the temperature and the magnificent views.
